How does the Guidelines Ruler compare with
conventional quilting rulers?
Quilting rulers have been around for about 30 years with the same basic design. Acrylic is cut to size and then lines are marked on the bottom. About the only variations are different colors for the lines and different non-slip features. Lately we've also seen neon colored acrylic with laser cut lines.
What hasn't changed with conventional acrylic quilting rulers:
Time Consuming: You have to pick out the measurement line you want by eye over and over again. It's hard to tell where the center of each line is to line it up to the fabric's edge. Even if you mark the line with tape or post-it notes, you still have to line it up by eye.
Slippage problem: You have to hold down the ruler tightly and even do the finger walk down the ruler to keep it from slipping while you cut.
a) Built-in Fabric Guides Help You Cut Every Strip and Square Accurately and Fast:
The Guidelines Ruler's built-in Fabric Guides mean you only have to find the line you need once.
They lock onto the measurement lines underneath the ruler, so they are always dead center of the line you want.
No More Tape or Post-It-Notes:
The adjustable Fabric Guides are PERMANENT that you never have to throw away unlike disposable tape or post-it-notesthat leave sticky residue on your ruler.
It works like using a food processer instead of
a knife to chop vegetables:
Because the fabric butts right up against the edge of the guides, it's faster and more accurate than anyone can possibly cut when lining up by eye.
b) No Slipping:
Cut a Single Layer or Multiple Layers of Fabric
with No Fatigue on Your Shoulder, Arm and Hand.
The Guidelines Ruler's built-in Grip Strips work better than
any other non-slip feature because they are on its edges.
On all other rulers, the pressure you put just goes straight down under your hand. Putting a vinyl sheet under an acrylic ruler helps, but it really only increases the gripping force right where your hand is. That's why when you run the cutter past your hand, they still tend to slip which is why we do the finger walk.
Just imagine if you got stepped on by someone in high heels, it would hurt you a lot. But if they were gym shoes, not so much.
c) Connectable in Three Different Ways:
With Guidelines Rulers you never have to carry or store a long 24" or 12" square ruler because they are connectable:
Make a 6" x 24" when needed, but take them apart and they will fit in a small bag or drawer or even in the case with your sewing machine. Connecting as a corner square makes it easy to square up fabric's edge.
d) Unbeakable, Un-Nickable, Un-Chippable:
Guidelines Rulers are made of Polycarbonate, which is 25 times stronger than acrylic. They are virtually unbreakable. You won't ever chip the corners or cut little slices off the edge of the Ruler.
e) Built-in Angle Line Marker:
Guidelines Ruler comes with an Angle Line
onto the indentations on the surface of
It reminds you which angle
line you're working at the time.
the Guidelines Ruler for both right and left handers?
Yes. The Guidelines can be used by both left
and right handed quilters. The angle lines also run
in both directions. Right handers will be cutting
on the right side of the Ruler, left handers
may turn it around and cut on the left side.
What is a Scant Quarter Inch and why do I need
to use it?
A Scant Quarter Inch is a measurement that
is 1 to 2 thread-width narrower than an exact
Don't we need an exact Quarter
Inch Seam Allowance?
Why should it be a Scant
Just like any lines have some width, a seam
line has 1 to 2 thread width. So, if
you measure the exact quarter
inch around quilt piece and sew them together,
you will be sewing into the finished piece
by 1 to 2 thread width too much. This may
sound insignificant, but when you put together
quilt pieces in this manner, a little adds
up to the major inaccuracy in the entire
When you sew a Scant Quarter
Inch, combined with the seam line, you end
up with a
perfect quarter inch seam allowance.
Guidelines4Quilting's Prep-Tool™ is scant
quarter inch wide. You can set a scant quarter inch seam guide on your sewing machine.
You can also trim triangle points precisely with the Prep-Tool.
5) Half and Quarter Square Triangles are identical in shape. How can I tell them apart when I see them in quilt blocks? Click on the play button to see how.
We all know that in quilting you never want a bias edge that can stretch out of shape on the outside of a block or unit. We always start by first squaring up our fabric, so that we cut our strips on the straight grain.
Knowing this makes it so much easier to tell Half & Quarter Square Triangles apart.
When you look at each individual patch with triangles in it, if the short sides of the triangle are on the outside, it is a Half Square Triangles. And if the long side is on the outside, it is a Quarter Square Triangles.
can I make
half square triangles and quarter square
triangles that fit perfectly with each other
or with squares in the same block?
If you already read the section above, you know why you have to make triangles extra big and take extra time to trim them.
Have you ever noticed that your triangles still don't look right after trimming them?
Here's the solution:
Just attach one of the Additions to the edge of the Guidelines Ruler.
The S for Squares, H for Half Square Triangles and Q for Quarter Square Traiangles.
Then, Pre-Trim Triangle Points to Make it Easier to Align Pieces Together:
Did You Know that Most Point Trimmers have a Built-In Error?
You now know that patterns add rounded up seam allowance amounts for triangles because quilt rulers only have lines every 1/8".
7/8" (0.875") instead of 0.854" to make Half Square Triangles.
1 1/4" (1.25") instead of 1.207" to make Quarter Square Triangles.
Because those measurements are rounded up, so are the measurements used by most point trimmers. Most Point Trimmers use a width of .375" which is 3/8". But, if you do the math, the exact width you should trim at is .354".
11) What's the difference between Finished Size and Cut Size of quilt pieces?
If you look at the Finished Block below, it is a 9" block made of 9 patches. The Finished Size of each patch is 3", so each Finished Square in the block equals one Finished Patch with a Finished size of 3".
You may not think about the Finished Size of
individual pieces very often today: