Let's Miter the Corners!
For sharp mitered corners, you need to stop sewing a scant 1/4" from the edge.
How to Get Sharp Mitered Corners
You can take all the guesswork out of finding the exact place to stop at a scant 1/4" by marking it with the Bohin Mechanical Pencil, using the Prep-Tool by Guidelines4Quilting as a Scant 1/4" guide.
Mark the Precise Stopping Point for
Sharp Mitered Corners.
Butt the lip edges on the Prep-Tool up to the edge of your top.
Mark the fabric along the outside edge of the Prep-Tool.
Mark the binding strip at the same distance from the edge.
Stop sewing when you get to the mark.
Sew at a 45º angle right into the corner of the quilt top.
Fold the binding strip straight up.
Fold the binding strip back down, keeping the fold in the strip aligned with the top of your quilt.
Continue stitching the binding to the top, taking a few back stitches when you start.
Do the same in the other corners and then stop when you get about 10 to 12 inches from where you started and take a few back-stitches.
Let's Miter the Corners!
For sharp mitered corners, you need to stop sewing a scant 1/4" from the edge.
You can take all the guesswork out of finding the exact place to stop at a scant 1/4" by marking it with the Bohin Mechanical Pencil, using the Prep-Tool by Guidelines4Quilting as a Scant 1/4" guide.
Butt the lip edges on the Prep-Tool up to the edge of your top.
Mark the fabric along the outside edge of the Prep-Tool.
Mark the binding strip at the same distance from the edge.
Stop sewing when you get to the mark.
Sew at a 45º angle right into the corner of the quilt top.
Fold the binding strip straight up.
Fold the binding strip back down, keeping the fold in the strip aligned with the top of your quilt.
Continue stitching the binding to the top, taking a few back stitches when you start.
Do the same in the other corners and then stop when you get about 10 to 12 inches from where you started and take a few back-stitches.
